Dhorpatan and Shey Phoksundo Backpacking-23 Days

Trip Summary

Trek to Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve and Shey Phoksundo Lake, tracing the hidden trails, and immerse yourself in a rich cultural and natural tapestry.

Walk across three mountain passes, four districts, and two national parks and follow the trails that are used by locals, caravans, and shepherds only. Starting from the mid-hills of Nepal, the trek navigates a wide range of terrain and culture and ultimately takes you to the Trans-Himalayan Tibetan plateau of Dolpo.

Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve, the only hunting reserve boasts small to large valleys and alpine meadows that in summer feed thousands of livestock. The area is inhabited by the Magar community, descendants of mongoloid lineage and they continue their tradition of animal husbandry, farming, and collection of Yarsha Gumba.

As we trek into Shey Phoksundo National Park, we can see the change in terrain, vegetation, and culture. The trail navigates the Phoksundo River upstream through subalpine forests and dotted settlements, allowing us to cross the river on wooden bridges a couple of times. Explore Ringmo Village, which sits by the Phoksundo Lake. The village has still retained its centuries-old cultural heritage, evident in its traditional and rustic appearance. The chortens scattered in the village, and the prayer flags standing on the rooftop of every household signify the ubiquity of Bon Buddhism. A walk around the Phoksundo Lake or meditation by the lakeside releases all your exhaustion and stress.

The trip endorses a backpacking style, mixing both tea house and tent accommodation. We use local resources and products to the best of our ability so that the weight of the backpack remains manageable. The food and accommodation standards remain very simple and basic throughout the trip.

The trip is leveled as difficult to challenging for the length it covers, the diverse terrain, and the remoteness. For the 16 days, you will walk into complete wilderness through remote valleys and villages, crossing several passes, carrying a moderate weight.

The trek starts with a drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara and further to Takam, the village far west of the town of Beni. Crossing Jala Jala Pass, the trail drops down to Dhorpatan Valley. From Dhorpatan, traverse northern alpine valleys, meadows, and villages cross Jang La pass at 4500m, and descend to Dunai, the headquarters of Dolpo District. From Dunai, follow the Phoksundo River make it to Phoksundo Lake, and retrace to Dunai. Fly to Nepalgunj from Juphal airport and catch the connecting flight back to Kathmandu.

Highlights

Off the Beaten Path:

Walk the trail untouched by mainstream tourist culture, and treasure the authentic and personalized experience.

Alpine Meadows:

Walk across the chain of remote alpine meadows and pastures.

Culture:

Experience the Magar culture of Dhorpatan Valley and Bonpo of Ringmo village.

Shey Phoksundo Lake:

Soak up the calmness and serenity of Phoksundo Lake

Ringmo Village:

Explore the ancient architecture and local life in the village of Ringmo village.

Trip Facts

Highest Elevation:

Jang La 4500m

Trip Length:

23 Days

Difficulty Level:

Difficult to Challenging

Accommodation:

Standard Hotel in Kathmandu, lodge/homes, and tent during trekking.

Group Size:

2-6

Starting/Ending Point:

Kathmandu

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu

Kathmandu 1300m

Welcome to Kathmandu, the valley of gods. Upon arrival, complete the visa process and proceed to the arrival terminal from where our staff will drive to your hotel. At the hotel, meet our team and get the information about the group meeting and dinner that will follow.

Day 2: Cultural Tour in Kathmandu

Kathmandu 1300m

Trekking to Shey Phoksundo National Park and Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve requires multiple permits, including restricted areas. While our operation team works on obtaining them, today you have the opportunity to walk into the temples, streets, bazaars and monasteries. Meet your city guide and start the day excursion. Later in the afternoon, meet your trekking guide and get essential information about the trip. Feel free to consult the guide for any last-minute shopping assistance you may require.

Day 3: Drive to Pokhara

Kathmandu 1300m

Our journey begins with an early morning departure from Kathmandu, as we drive through river valleys, terraced fields, and roadside settlements to Pokhara. The drive typically lasts around 6 to 7 hours, but occasionally, it may take longer due to potential disruptions on the road. Check-in hotel and explore Lakeside, the tourist capital of Pokhara.

Day 4: Drive to Falya Gaon

Falya Gaon 1300m

Gear up for an incredible overland trip to Mareni. Drive to Beni, a prosperous town and headquarter to Myagdi district. Continue driving on the off road to the west, along Myagdi Khola, and cross it near the town of Darbang. Drive uphill through small villages and terraced fields to Falya Gaon. It is a very large village of Chhantyal, Magar, Chhetri and Thakali. Located on the north-eastern terraced slopes, it faces Dhaulagiri. Gurja, Churen and Putha Himal to the north.. Enjoy first overnight in the backcountry.

Day 5: Trek to Mareni

Mareni 2560m

Hit the trail after breakfast, and drop to Lulang river and cross it. Follow the northern bank of the river and walk past the beautiful Narja Waterfall. Continue walking uphill and take a rest at Lulang Village. Level out the trail until we reach Lulang river once again, upon crossing the river, follow a steep uphill trail through terraced fields and conclude the day at Mareni. It is a very small village on the northern slope of Jaljala Ridge, where only couple houses host the guests. Enjoy the second night at a local's place and live like a local.

Day 6: Trek to Jalthala

Jalthala 3015m

You can expect to get the wake up call from the rooster. Have breakfast and enjoy a well-appointed view of Gurja Himal. Ascend through Rhododendron Forest to Jaljala Pass 3435m, and appreciate the incredible view of Dhaulagiri, Gurja, Putha and Churen Himal in a single frame. Walking down from the pass, we approach a flat and easy trail. Lil Bit further down, we enter the Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve. The only hunting reserve in Nepal that is established for sports hunting to preserve the local ecosystem. Spend a night in simple lodges nearby.

Day 7: Trek to Dhorpatan.

Dhorpatan 3024

he route comfortably ascends to Dhorpatan village through lush Fir and Hemlock forests, crossing streams on wooden bridges. Pass by the Bonpo monastery and small villages before reaching the Dhorpatan valley. Experience the lifestyle of the Kham Magars as you walk past the villages. Dhorpatan is a very wide and flat valley, with Uttar Ganga rushing through its center, draining the entire valley. There is also a seasonal STOL aristrip which during other times serves as a grazing field to horses and livestocks. After freshening up, take a leisurely walk through the grassland, savoring the peaceful ambiance of the valley.

Day 8: Trek to Thakur

Thakur 3310m

Pack some light lunch and veer north, ascending gradually through terraced fields until you reach a small pass, followed by a beautiful forest and meadows, locally known as Patan. Approach Phalgune Pass (4020m) and enjoy a packed lunch with a beautiful view. You can also have noodle soup and a cup of tea at the tent near the pass. Walk on the ridgeline, meet the herders and their herd of sheep, and taste the fresh milk or cheese(depending on the season you trek). Descend to Thakur village to spend well-deserved rest.

Day 9: Trek to Pelma

Pelma 2493m

From Thakur, the trail enters the forest of Pine and Fir, leading us down to Ghasdhunga Khola, one of the many tributaries of the Bheri River. Upon crossing the suspension bridge, we ascend on stone staircases until we reach a ridgeline where sits a small village of Kayam. We grab lunch there and continue walking along the ridge, followed by a short descent to Pelma. You can visit the apple farm en route to the village, which is one of the largest in the area.

Day 10: Trek to Maikot

Maikot 2324m

The trail drops down to the river and ascends steeply to the village of Yamkhar, upon crossing it. Follow the cliffside trail high above the river that offers the beautiful view of the valley below. Ascending gradually, the trail finally brings us to Balasari ridge, from where it negotiates the pastures, small villages and forest. Enter into the village through two rows of houses which span over 500m. The village sits atop a ridgeline and is the largest settlement of Kham Magars who still keep the tradition of animal husbandry, handicraft and farming.

Day 11: Trek to Dhule

Dhule 3330m

We retrace the trail we took the other day for an hour and head towards the northern ridgeline. See the Maikot village and the valley to your left and descend to the small village of Dhule, the last permanent settlement until we make it Dunai.

Day 12: Trek to Pupal Phedi

Pupal Phedi 3904m

Back to action, as we climb to the ridge through the forest, followed by the meadow. Then walk the downhill section through meadows, to the river valley, and undulate along the river until we make it to Pupal Phedi (Base Camp). Located on the bank of Ranma river, the place has a few fixed tents run by locals (except in winter) that host trekkers and local traders, and serve simple Nepali food and tea/coffee. This place also serves as the base camp for the locals who gather in this area to collect Yarshagumba in summer.

Day 13: Trek to Purbang

Purbang 4200m

Continue navigating the Ranma river for an hour then ascend the trail to your left and arrive at Pupal Lake, which has religious significance among locals. Follow the trail through narrow and shallow valleys, surrounded by neverending meadows and small streams. Cross a small stream and climb for an hour to Purbang, a no man's land. Eat the meals prepared by guides and sleep a very quiet night.

Day 14: Trek to Tarakot via Jang La Pass

Jang La 4536m Tarakot 2842m

One of the longest and toughest days awaits us today. Walk uphill and scale giant Jang La at the elevation of 4536m which also marks our entrance to Dolpo district. Follow the forested trail on a long descent passing by a few sheep shelters and camp near the village of Tarakot by the small stream, amidst wild forest, and enjoy the last camping experience.

Day 15: Trek to Dunai

Dunai 2089m

Leaving the campsite, we have a short climb to a small pass, followed by the downhill path through dotted villages and the forest. As we meet the Bheri river, follow the off road to Dunai, the headquarters of Dolpo district. Spend a night in a better lodge than you have had for one and half weeks, along with decent meals.

Day 16: Trek to Chepka

Chepka 2670m

Cross the Bheri River on suspension bridges and walk downstream by the riverbank to Rupagadh, where the Bheri River meets the Phoksundo River. As you veer towards the North and follow the Phoksundo River, you can witness the changes in vegetation, terrain, and structure of houses. Sticking to the eastern bank of Phoksundo Khola and passing by tiny settlements and tea houses, we reach Chepka, overnight.

Day 17: Trek to Jharana

Jharana 2909m

After breakfast, continue following the Phoksundo River upstream through Cedar forest and a few tea houses. Cross the river on wooden bridges a couple of times. While the trail does not feature many ascents and descents, its rugged terrain may be hard to cope with sometimes. Jharan is a small settlement on the bank of Phoksundo river, with a school and a health post.

Day 18: Trek to Ringmo

Ringmo 3660m

Crossing Phoksundo river, we walk past winter settlements used by people living in Upper Dolpo. Approach the final and steep uphill section on dry terrain but with a wonderful view of Suligadh Waterfall, which drains the water from Phoksundo Lake. Once the ascent is over, we follow a gentle uphill trail through birch and fir forest, along Phoksundo River. After making it to the tea house, and relaxing for a bit, explore the Tibetan Bonpo village of Ringmo.

Day 19: Explore Ringmo and Phoksundo Lake

Ringmo 3660m

Explore the area that flourishes around the Phoksundo Lake. Walk to the eastern bank of the lake to visit Tsowa Gompa, a 900 year old Bon Monastery. Upon your return to the village, have lunch and walk to the lake and see how it changes its colors throughout the day. Sitting by the lake shore and soaking up it’s serenity and calmness is truly an unparalleled experience.

Day 20: Trek to Chepka

Chepka 2670m

Walk down to Chhepka, retracing the trail.

Day 21: Trek to Juphal

Juphal 2400m

Retrace the trail till Rupagad and cross Bheri River and ascend gradually to Juphal. Spend a night close to the airport.

Day 22: Fly to Nepalgunj and to Kathmandu

Nepalgunj 150m Kathmandu 1300m

Catch the flight to Nepalgunj early in the morning. This 40 minute flight brings us to Nepalgunj, the trade hub for entire western Nepal. Then we catch a connecting flight to Kathmandu. If you have spare time then you can drive to Bardia National Park to see wildlife. On your return to Kathmandu, relax and enjoy fancy meals and accommodations. You can walk to the local market and bazaars to buy gifts and souvenirs for yourself and your loved ones.

Day 23: Departure

Kathmandu 1300m

Your default trip ends here. We will drive you to the airport according to your flight time. If you have a couple of hours left before you fly home. Visit local bazaars and markets and buy some gifts for your family and loved ones.

Gearlist

Upper Body

1 set of Base/Thermal Layer (Merino is ideal)

1 mid-layer/Hoody (fleece or similar).

1 Set of outer layer

Waterproof trousers and top (gore-tex is ideal)

1 pair of lightweight trekking trousers or zip-off pants.

Hiking shorts

2 trekking t-shirts/shirts-merino is ideal

Four Season Sleeping bag.

Four Season Down Jacket.

1 pair of liner gloves.

1 warm wool hat.

1 buff or similar.

Sleeping bag liner

Underwear.

Feet

1 pair of trekking boots (must be worn in).

Sandals or hut shoes.

1 pair of thick walking socks / 2 pairs of lighter walking socks.

Running Shoes or sneakers.

Kit

1 Personal Day Backpack 40/45 ltr.

1 Duffel Bag 50/60 ltr.

Headtorch

2 Water bottles

1 Biodegradable trash bag

Sleeping Mattress.

Pillow

Toiletries

Travel towel.

Sun cream.

Hand gel.

Moisturizer.

Lip Balm.

Face Wash.

Listerine mouthwash.

Toilet Paper.

Soap

Shampoo

Tooth Brush

Tooth Paste

Razors.

Optional

Trekking poles.

Personal medication and first aid kit.

Power bank.

Playing Cards.

Book.

1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing repair kit.

1 small folding knife.

Maps.

Note and pen.

Thermal Flask

Permanent Marker

Adhesive Hand or toe warmer

Warm scarf

Fleece Pants

Blister stickers

FAQ

How to get the Visa?

Visas are available upon arrival at the airport in Kathmandu. When you arrive, you will fill out a form first at a kiosk and then proceed to a banking desk where you will pay the Visa fee (USD 50 for 30 days US$30 for 15 days). You might be able to pay with a credit card, but bringing cash (USD) with you expedites the process. With that receipt and the form you filled out, you will proceed to the immigration officer who will issue you a visa. During the peak tourist season, the immigration desk can get congested, which can be a hassle.

Can I bring a drone?

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Do I get altitude Sickness?

Trekking to Dhorpatan and Phoksundo Lake involves a very low risk of getting altitude sickness, although altitude can affect your body in different ways. Some get mild symptoms, while some remain completely unaffected. The effect varies according to your medical history, age, rest, food, and water intake. While there is no fixed way to prevent the effect of altitude, the general guidelines to avoid are to eat and drink properly, sleep well, avoid speeding up the pace, and have a positive mindset.

Are there internet services available?

Can I store my unnecessary luggage at the hotels in Kathmandu?

You can store your luggage at the hotel free of cost. You will need to fill out a form provided by the hotel to store your luggage.

How much does a porter carry?

Porter is provided in a 1:1 ratio and each porter carries 20 kg maximum. So bring a maximum of 20kg. per person to ensure porters are not given more than 20 kg to carry.

Back up fund.

The itinerary we have planned is subject to change locally due to unavoidable circumstances. In such an event, the extra cost incurred is subject to be covered by you. Unavoidable circumstances we generally categorize are:

Extreme weather
Natural Disaster
Pandemic
Political Unrest, riots, and demonstrations. Road Closure due to landslides, broken bridges, accidents, etc. Health issues experienced by guests Common accidents that can occur such as slips and falls, ankle twists, etc.

What is the local culture like?

Nepal has a diverse and rich culture that is heavily influenced by its history, and religion. As a tourist, you may encounter locals who approach you to chat, take pictures, or sell goods.

The roads in Kathmandu are busy most of the time so you might get stuck in traffic jams whenever you take local transportation. It is not uncommon to see cows, and dogs in the middle of the roads, beggars around the temple, and street children in the streets of Thamel. Please refrain from giving money and food to these people.

The local vendors try to charge higher than the normal price. So make sure you have a good deal before you pay for whatever you want to buy.

However local restaurants have fixed prices for the meals they serve so no need to bargain the cost.

Local restaurants close after ten and bars but pubs remain open all night but it is good to go to bed before 10 pm.

Locals you meet in the pubs and bars are usually friendly and helpful but they can be rude sometimes depending on how you treat them. To stay safe, it is strongly advised that you remain sober and avoid consuming excessive amounts of alcohol.

What can I rent in Kathmandu?

Sleeping Bag and Down Jacket

How does drinking water work?

Bottled water is hardly available during the trip so it is strongly advised to plan for purification pills or filters.

What currency do I bring?

Nepal uses the Nepalese Rupee as its currency. It is viable to carry NPR (Nepalese Rupees) to pay for the meals and other services you use along the way because all the prices for the services, meals, drinks, etc are quoted in NPR.

You can bring US$/GBP/AUS $/Euro and exchange them at an exchange booth on every street. However, they don’t follow the rate published by the Central Bank of Nepal.

Make sure that the foreign currency notes you bring are not old, torn, or faded as it is difficult to exchange them.

For better rates, you can go to the local bank in Kathmandu with your passport and it may take between one to one and a half hours, and they only do cash service till 3 pm local time. Saturday is a bank holiday and Friday is a half holiday.

Getting cash out of an ATM usually gives the best exchange rate but they will charge around $5 on each transaction. In a single day, you can withdraw NPR 100000 only but not more than NPR 35000 in one transaction. This means you have to make multiple transactions and on each transaction, you will be charged around $5. If you are planning to use cards to withdraw cash from an ATM booth, make sure to inform your card issuer that you will be using it outside Europe/America/Australia.

What should I do if my luggage did not arrive on my flight?

File a report: Report it to the airline’s baggage service office at the airport.

Get a tracking number: Ask for a tracking number so that you can check the status of your luggage.

Provide contact information: Provide the airline with your contact information and the name and address of the hotel you are staying at. Keep the form: Make sure to keep a copy of the report you filed at the airline’s office in the airport. To be on the safe side it is advisable to pack essential trekking gear in your hand luggage on an international flight.

Do I need the photo for my visa and permit?

Yes, you need two for a trekking permit.

When to book a return ticket?

It’s recommended that you schedule your return flight for 2 days after the default itinerary ends. This allows for an additional day in Kathmandu after your trek. Or if you want to extend your trip to Chitwan then you can book the flight that fits your plan.

How much do I need to budget?

Your spending on this trip will depend on your personal preferences and appetite. But since you will trek in remote locations, opportunities to spend money on other services such as hot showers, wifi, and other personal preferences will be limited. But it is advised to bring some backup money as there are not any ATMs along the route. As a general guideline, it is recommended to plan around US$5-600 as a backup fund.

Logistics

Included

Meals

Accommodations.

Ground Transportation.

Permits and National Park Fees.

Guides and supporting staff.

Welcome meal.

Supporting Crew

We make sure that every trip we run is led by a very experienced, professional, and friendly guide. All our guides are hand-picked, trained, and passionate about the outdoors.

How to get there?

The trip starts and ends in Kathmandu so make sure to book the flight accordingly. You can book any flight you want that fits your trip’s start and end date. However, it is good to arrive before 3 pm local time so that you can make it to the group meeting and welcome dinner.

Accommodations

All the accommodations are on a twin-shared basis. You will get standard accommodations with breakfast in Kathmandu and simple homestay/lodges and tented camps during trekking.

Excluded

International Flights

Visa Fees

Personal Insurance

Personal Expenses

Tipping and gratitude

Extra Expenses due to unforeseen situation

Drinking Water

Practical Information

Difficulty Level

The trip is leveled as difficult to challenging for the length it covers, the diverse terrain, and the remoteness.

A typical day in the mountains.

A typical day begins between 8-9 am depending on the length you are to cover. After walking for a couple of hours, there is a tea break, followed by a lunch break at another place. Upon reaching the overnight lodge, check in your room, freshen up and gather in the dining hall, order dinner, and get it served between 6 to 7 pm. After dinner, you will get the briefing about the next day and play cards, riddles, and other fun games.

Atmosphere of the Trek

As you hit the trail, the tapestry of wooden bridges, quaint villages, alpine meadows, and lush forests brings you lots of energy and excitement. Morning offers stunning views and fresh air while evening provides an opportunity to be social, by dining together and talking among fellow trekkers and locals. In some places, you will have the opportunity to stay at local houses, not the regular tea houses, and live like them.

Best Season

Any month between September to May but September to November and March to May are considered best.

Fitness Required

Hiking with a backpack at least once a week, three months before the trip is recommended. Other exercises like jogging, running, and cardio regularly help you a lot.

Weather Conditions

The weather should be good if you do this trek in peak season. But having said that it is also advisable to be prepared for rain, clouds, and snow as these factors can significantly impact your trek schedule.

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